The final leg.

I am now actually back in the UK but not before sailing across the 230km wide Rio de la Plata from Montevideo to Buena’s Aires. The last day was spent by the 3 musketeers at a local wetland called Costanera Sur. This would have been my third visit in as many weeks so I took myself off to see a bit off culture including Eva Perons tomb and an Independence gift from Britain called the 'British Tower' which was promptly renamed in 1982 !! Speaking of which I understand there has been a it of argy bargy again (no pun intended) over the Falklands or as they like to say malvinas...

Back to Costenera Sur a local wetland no more than 15 minute drive from our central city hotel. A great little reserve with lots of trails and a number of pools. Despite being drier than recent years it still provided many new species over our three visits. The highlights included

Hooded Siskin

Kiskadee

Bay winged Cowbird

Shiny Cowbird

Chalk browed Mockingbird

Masked Yellowthroat

Black Rufous Warbling Finch

Black capped Warbling Finch

Cinnamon Teal

Silver Teal

South American Stilt

Black Faced Parakeet

Monk Parakeet

Double Collard Seedeater

Snail Kite

Chalk browed Mockingbird

So an overnight flight from BAires to Madrid then London now finds me back home and looking forward to reviewing and editing the many many photo's. It only remains for me to thank the rest of the team of Messrs Mullins, Gibson and Clarke for making the trip a success; Providing some great laughs, good company and some outstanding birding.

And one final thanks to Phil for helping me out with my postings, correcting my many spelling mistakes from my extremely rushed typing from a very expensive and intermittent satellite link.

I hope this site has provided some interesting reading and hopefully inspiration to visit what must be one of the most very special places in the world providing some very special seawatching.

I will over the next couple of weeks post a full species list and have been assured by the trip photographers I will have their photo's within the next 10 days, so keep watching over the next couple of weeks for some cracking pictures of some cracking seabirds

Below is a full trip list compiled by Ken Mullins

LESSER RHEA.....Pterocnemia pennata


WHITE FACED WHISTLING DUCK......Dendrocygna viduata

FULVOUS WHISTLING DUCK........Dendrocygna bicolor

BLACK NECKED SWAN........Cygnus melanacoryphus

COSCOROBA SWAN........Coscoroba coscoroba

UPLAND GOOSE........Chloephaga picta

KELP GOOSE........Chloephaga hybrida

ASHY HEADED GOOSE.....Chloephaga poliocephala

RUDDY HEADED GOOSE.....Chloephaga rubidiceps

RINGED TEAL......Callonetta leucophrys

FLYING STEAMER DUCK.....Tachyeres patachonicus

FLIGHTLESS STEAMER DUCK....Tachyeres pteneres

FALKLAND STEAMER DUCK.....Tachyeres brachypterus

CRESTED DUCK.........Lophonetta specularioides

SPECTACLED DUCK.....Speculanas specularis

RED SHOVELER........Anas platalea

CINNAMON TEAL.....Anas cyanoptera

SILVER TEAL.......Anas versicolor

CHILOE WIGEON.....Anas sibilatrix

SPECKLED TEAL......Anas flavirostris

YELLOW BILLED PINTAIL.....Anas spinicauda

WHITE TUFTED GREBE....Rollandia rolland

GREAT GREBE.......Podiceps major

SILVERY GREBE.....Podiceps occipitalis

CHILEAN FLAMINGO.....Phoenicopterus chilensis

GENTOO PENGUIN......Pygoscelis papua

ADELIE PENGUIN......Pygoscelis adeliae

CHINSTRAP PENGUIN.....Pygoscelis antarctica

MAGELLANIC PENGUIN...Spheniscus magellanicus

WANDERING ALBATROSS....Diomedia exulans

SOUTHERN ROYAL ALBATROSS ....Diomedia epomophora

NORTHERN ROYAL ALBATROSS ....Diomedia sanfordi

LIGHT MANTLED SOOTY ALBATROSS....Phoebetria palpebrata

YELLOW NOSED ALBATROSS........Thalassarche chlororhynchos

BLACK BROWED ALBATROSS........Thalassarche melanophrys

GREY HEADED ALBATROSS......Thalassarche chrysostoma

WHITE CAPPED ALBATROSS.....Thalassarche cauta

SOUTHERN GIANT PETREL.....Macronectes giganteus

NORTHERN GIANT PETREL.....Macronectes halli

SOUTHERN FULMAR......Fulmarus glacialoides

CAPE PIGEON.........Daption capense

ANTARCTIC PETREL......Thalassoica antarctica

SNOW PETREL.......Pagodroma nivea

ATLANTIC PETREL......Pterodroma incerta

SOFT PLUMAGED PETREL....Pterodroma mollis

BLUE PETREL........Halobaena caerulea

ANTARCTIC (DOVE) PRION......Pachyptila desolata

SLENDER BILLED PRION......Pachyptila belcheri

WHITE CHINNED PETREL....Procellaria aequinoctialis

SPECTACLED PETREL.......Procellaria conspicilliata

CORY'S SHEARWATER......Calonectris diomedia

LITTLE SHEARWATER......Puffinus assimilis

MANX SHEARWATER.....Puffinus puffinus

SOOTY SHEARWATER.....Puffinus griseus

GREAT SHEARWATER.....Puffinus gravis

BLACK BELLIED STORM PETREL....Fregetta tropica

WILSON'S STORM PETREL......Oceanites oceanicus

GREY BACKED STORM PETREL.....Garrodia nereis

COMMON DIVING PETREL.......Pelecanoides urinatrix

NEOTROPIC CORMORANT.....Phalacrocorax brasilianus`

ROCK (MAGELLAN) CORMORANT....Phalacrocorax magellenicus

IMPERIAL CORMORANT.....Phalacrocorax atriceps

ANTARCTIC CORMORANT....Phalacrocorax bransfieldensis

BLACK CROWNED NIGHT HERON....Nycticorax nycticorax

CATTLE EGRET.....Bubulcus ibis

WHITE NECKED (COCOI) HERON...Ardea cocoi

GREAT EGRET.....Ardea alba

WHISTLING HERON......Syrigma sibilatrix

SNOWY EGRET......Egretta thula

BLACK FACED IBIS.....Theristicus melanopis

TURKEY VULTURE......Cathartes aura

ANDEAN CONDOR......Vultur gryphus

SNAIL KITE......Rostrhamus sociabilis

CINEROUS HARRIER.......Circus cinereus

BLACK CHESTED BUZZARD-EAGLE.....Geranoaetus melanoleucus

HARRIS'S HAWK.....Parabuteo unicinctus

ROADSIDE HAWK......Buteo magnirostris

SOUTHERN CARACARA......Caracara plancus

WHITE-THROATED CARACARA.....Phalcoboenus albogularis

CHIMANGO CARACARA......Milvago chimango

AMERICAN KESTREL......Falco sparverius

APLOMADO FALCON.....Falco femoralis

GREY NECKED WOOD-RAIL.....Aramides cajanea

WHITE WINGED COOT......Fulica leucoptera

RED-GARTERED COOT.....Fulica armillata

SOUTHERN LAPWING....Vanellus chilensis

TWO BANDED PLOVER.....Charadrius falklandicus

RUFOUS-CHESTED DOTTEREL....Charadrius modestus

TAWNY-THROATED DOTTEREL.....Oreopholus ruficollis

BLACKISH OYSTERCATCHER....Haematopus ater

MAGELLANIC OYSTERCATCHER....Haematopus leucopodus

BLACK NECKED STILT......Himantopus mexicanus

MAGELLANIC PLOVER....Pluvianellus socialis

SOUTH AMERICAN SNIPE.....Gallinago paraguaiae

WHIMBREL......Numenius phaeopus

WHITE-RUMPED SANDPIPER....Calidris fuscicollis

BAIRD'S SANDPIPER......Calidris bairdii

WILSON'S PHALAROPE.....Phalaropus tricolor

LEAST SEEDSNIPE.....Thinocorus rumicivorus

WATTLED JACANA.....Jacana jacana

CHILEAN SKUA.......Stercorarius chilensis

SOuTH POLAR SKUA....Stercorarius maccormicki

BROWN SKUA....Stercorarius antarcticus

POMARINE SKUA....Stercorarius pomarinus

ARCTIC SKUA.....Stercorarius parasiticus

LONG TAILED SKUA.......Stercorarius longicaudus

BROWN-HOODED GULL....Chroicocephalus maculipennis

DOLPHIN GULL......Leucophaeus scoresbii

KELP GULL.....Larus dominicanus

SOUTH AMERICAN TERN.....Sterna hirundinacea

ARCTIC TERN.....Sterna paradisaea

ANTARCTIC TERN....Sterna vittata

ROYAL TERN.....Thalasseus maximus

PICUI GROUND-DOVE.....Columbina picui

PICAZURO PIGEON....Patagioenas picazuro

EARED DOVE......Zenaida auriculata

NANDAY (BLACK HOODED) PRAKEET.....Nandayus nenday

MONK PARAKEET.....Myiopsitta monachus

GUIRA CUCKOO.......Guira guira

AUSTRAL PYGMY-OWL......Glaucidium nanum

GLITTERING BELLIED EMERALD HUMMINGBIRD.......Chlorostilbon aureoventris

GILDED SAPPHIRE HUMMINGBIRD......Hylocharis chrysura

RINGED KINGFISHER.......Megaceryle torquata

GREEN BARRED WOODPECKER.....Colaptes melanochloros

CHILEAN FLICKER.......Colaptes pitius

CAMPO FLICKER......Colaptes campestris

MAGELLANIC WOODPECKER......Campephilus magellanicus

COMMON MINER.....Geositta cunicularia

SCALE-THROATED EARTHCREEPER.....Upucerthia dumetaria

BAR-WINGED CINCLODES......Cinclodes fuscus

DARK-BELLIED CINCLODES.....Cinclodes patagonicus

BLACKISH CINCLODES.....Cinclodes antarcticus

RUFOUS HORNERO.......Furnarius rufus

THORN-TAILED RAYADITO.....Aphrastura spinicauda

PEARLED TREERUNNER.......Margarornis squamiger

WHITE-CRESTED ELAENIA.....Elaenia albiceps

AUSTRAL NEGRITO.....Lessonia rufa

DARK-FACED GROUND-TYRANT.....Muscisaxicola maclovanius

OCHRE-NAPED GROUND-TYRANT....Muscisaxicola flavinucha

FIRE-EYED DIUCON....Xolmis pyrope

GREAT KISKADEE.....Pitangus sulphuratus

FORK-TAILED FLYCATCHER....Tyrannus savana

TROPICAL KINGBIRD........Tyrannus melancholicus

BLUE-AND-WHITE SWALLOW.....Pygochelidon cyanoleuca

GREY-BREASTED MARTIN.........Progne chalybea

BROWN-CHESTED MARTIN......Progne tapera

CHILEAN SWALLOW......Tachycineta meyeni

BANK SWALLOW......Riparia riparia

HOUSE WREN...Troglodytes aedon

SEDGE (GRASS) WREN.....Cistothorus platensis

MASKED GNATCATCHER......Polioptila dumicola

RUFOUS-BELLIED THRUSH......Turdus rufiventris

AUSTRAL THRUSH.......Turdus falcklandii

CHALK-BROWED MOCKINGBIRD....Mimus saturninus

EUROPEAN STARLING......Sturnus vulgaris

CORRENDERA PIPIT.......Anthus correndera

RED-CRESTED CARDINAL.....Paroaria coronata

WHITE-LINED TANAGER......Tachyphonus rufus

RUFOUS-COLLARED SPARROW.....Zonotrichia capensis

GREY-HOODED SIERRA-FINCH.....Phrygilus gayi

PATAGONIAN SIERRA-FINCH.......Phrygilus patagonicus

MOURNING SIERRA-FINCH..........Phrygilus fruticeti

WHITE-BRIDLED (BLACK THROATED) FINCH....Melanodera melanodera

BLACK-AND-RUFOUS WARBLING-FINCH.....Poospiza nigrorufa

BLACK-CAPPED WARBLING-FINCH....Poospiza melanoleuca

SAFFRON FINCH......Sicalis flaveola

DOUBLE-COLLARED SEEDEATER......Sporophila caerulescens

TROPICAL PARULA.....Parula pitiayumi

MASKED YELLOWTHROAT.....Geothlypis aequinoctialis

YELLOW-WINGED BLACKBIRD.....Agelasticus thilius

CHESTNUT-CAPPED BLACKBIRD.....Chrysomus ruficapillus

BAY-WING COWBIRD......Agelaiodes badius

SHINY COWBIRD.....Molothrus bonariensis

LONG-TAILED MEADOWLARK......Sturnella loyca

BOBOLINK......Dolichonyx oryzivorus

EUROPEAN GREENFINCH.....Carduelis chloris

HOODED SISKIN......Carduelis magellanica

BLACK-CHINNED SISKIN....Carduelis barbata

HOUSE SPARROW......Passer domesticus

Ness Gardens.

The Seabirds have gone now I have made landfall in Montivideo, the capital of Uraguay. A light open well set city not as claustrophopic as say London with some terrific colonial architecture. Over half the country,s population live in its capital. Uraguay is in fact the second smallest country in South America and one of the most democratically stable, so any fears of a military coup while I am here have been laid to rest.
So there is a reason birders dont go birding to Ness Gardens and thats because it,s rubbish for birds, So why on earth we thought a botanical gardens in the heart of Motivideo would be any different, God only knows.(must be the heat) 86 degrees today. Anyway we forged onward in a taxi with no floor just in case I wanted to watch a couple of miles of Uraguayan tarmac rush below me.

We arrived safely and to be honest it wasn't that bad. Highlights today included

Picui Ground Dove

White tipped Dove

Tropical Parula

Guilded Flycatcher

Green Barred Woodpecker

Cream bellied Thrush

Giant Wood Rail

A Large crested Flycatcher (yet to be identified)

Buenas Aires Tommorrow then home...............

Pull back X 2

Arriving later than usual on deck this morning Mark and I were greeted with news that Shy Albatross and a Spectacled Petrel had been seen. The latter a tick for both me and Mark.
However all was not what it seemed with the Spectacled Petrel; Despite the bird showing the prominent white spectacles none of the observers had noted the diagnostic dark tip that seperates it from White chinned Petrel that can also display extensive white around the eyes extending up from the chin. Having done my best to disparage the record I went off for a well earned cup of tea!

We are sailing in relatively shallow waters know as I head Northwest into the River Plate. 10,000 Great Shearwaters, Atlantic Petrels a new bird being Pom Skua. We also connected with several Shy Albatrosses and a shout from the stern had us running down the Starboard side to see not one but two Spectacled Petrels complete with their dark tipped bills, following behind in the wake.

Motivideo, Uraguay tommorrow for a shore based day out and possibly some culture but not likely.

To cap it all.

This evenings meal was yet another triumph. Roast Pheashant, a julienne of vegetables, lyonnaise potatoes all served with a red wine jus. Conversation over dinner was largely dominated by the bird most of us missed.

WHITE CAPPED ALBATROSS

A White-capped or Shy (Virtually inseperable at sea) was seen by half the on board birders including one of our own, sharp eyed Ivan. The rest of us missed it for a number of reasons. Firstly Mark had done one of his now infamous dissapearing acts and had been awol for some time, Kenny was busy practising his charm offensive on any random passanger that passed within range whilst I was below deck taking afternoon tea and watching yet another dazzling display of Argentinian Tango. Argentinian Tango? How does that differ from classical tango I hear you cry. Well the answer of course is with the position of the dancers. Classical tango requires the dancers to dance with their backs arched away from each other whilst Argentinian tango dictates the dancers dance chest to chest and as closely as possible (very appealing).

And will the White-capped be back in the morning?

Rock n' Roll

Now in the Roaring Forties I am 300 nautical miles of the coast of South America and heading North. Big numbers of Albatrosses, Shearwaters and Petrels again today with some terrific seawatching had by all. Todays highlights and new birds for the trip are
NORTHERN ROYAL ALBATROSS
SLENDER BILLED PRION
GREY BACKED PETREL (very nice)

The Prions are extremely difficult to seperate but we did start to imagine we saw ; I mean we saw the appropriate plumage detail that enabled us to seperate Slender billed from Antarctic.

For the 3 Muskateers that went to the Patagonian Steppes yesterday whilst I stayed in town pottering, their highlights included

Tawny Throated Dotterel
Black faced Ibis
Magellanic Plover
White tufted Grebe

I must just must mention my launch ride from hell yesterday. To get to shore we are ferried across on small 30ft craft which up until yesterday have felt safe and great. During my time ashore a rather stiff South westerley had developed and appeared to have suddenly strenthenged just at the time I decided to return to my boat waiting offshore. No more than 30 metres from shore the small launch starts violently pitching and rolling to an estimated 70 degrees on both the vertical and horizontal plane; As this is happening a huge wave smashes the seal on the front window of the launch which starts to flood the cabin with water whilst a flare accidentley ignites inside another launch filling the enclosed cabin space with orange smoke. The longest 15 minute boat ride of my life !

In reality the launch pilots know what they are doing but it doesnt stop a few beads of sweat developing on your brow; and I love sailing!

Chilly Chile

I have this morning arrived in Punta Arenas, Chile and it´s rather cool. A non birding day for me today as I take the opportunity to catch up with a thousand e-mails and update the blog at a far more reasonable rate of $2 per hour, as well as collect some souveniers for Mrs C .

To expand on Yesterdays trip in Ushuaia, Argentina. We did rather well and the list included many other species than those I highlighted. Other species included

Spine tailed Rayadito
Treerunner
Patagonia sierra Finch
Chamanga Caracara
Southern Crested Caracara
Great Grebe
Chilean Swallow ( like a tiny House Martin)
Dolphin Gulls
Flightless steamer Duck
Crested Duck
Spectacled Duck
Roufous breasted Dotterel
Austral Pygmy Owl.

So on my final leg of my Journey I head for Uraguay tonight and although I have nothing planned in Montivideo it does mean three more sea days which of course means 3 more days of sea watching and nothing beats that !!

(Note from Phil: Hope he remembers my souvenier).

Tierra del Fuego

Another super day. This time an inland based trip but not before racking up Chilean Skua and South American Tern. I set off early this morning to Tierra del Fuego national park with a growing band of men now numbering 8 in total as the birders on the trip have now found each other. Not hard to do really; just look for the weirdo's with nothing better to do with their time than to stare out to sea.

Anyway the Yamanas were the indigenous people of (TDF) before european settlers killed them all off with disease by 1910. Very sad indeed; but on a brighter note we scored heavily with a huge list of birds the highlights being

WHITE THROATED CARACARA

MAGELLENIC WOODPECKER

ANDEAN CONDOR (very impressive)

Punta Arenas early tomorrow so no celebartions tonight as last evenings Guiness and a trip to the local municipal landfill site for caracara didn't mix well today I can tell you.

Cape Horn.

Well I have made the crossing from Antarctica to Cape Horn and its reputation as one of the stormiest seas in the world is justified, with the officer of the watch issuing a number of severe weather warnings which ultimately prevented us from circumnavigating the Horn. For those who didn't know, Cape Horn is actually an island.


The crossing was again outstanding with many hundreds of shearwaters, petrels and Albatross with a new one today; SOUTHERN ROYAL ALBATROSS and my favourite and seemingly the rarest as it's only my second LIGHT MANTLED SOOTY. Last evening we managed a couple of BLUE PETRELS which are also new for the trip.

A days land based birding tomorrow in Tierra del Fuego will be a welcome break for us all after 110 hours Seawatching.

Having made the Horn, we will no doubt indulge in a couple of celebratory Guinness this evening.

Return of the Pintado.

After yet another celebratory meal last night with several equally celebratory pints of Guiness it was pleasing to see 3 of our 4 out on deck by 6,30 as we approached Deception Island and headed north across the drake passage,

Pintado's are back with us after a two day abscence, these fantastic Petrels are ever present all around our boat. As luck would have it eagle eyed Ivan and Ken spotted what is likely to be our one and only Antarctic Petrel of the trip as we are now heading away from the ice pack. The late riser who missed this great bird shall remain nameless but Ivan Ken and myself are extremely pleased to be adding this Antarctic gem to our lists !!

I am pleased to report that after 10 days at sea Kendo has finally had a shag. In fact, we all have. Several Antarctic Shags were spotted sitting on rocks just off from the Polish research station where we dropped off two poles and picked up two Bulgarian scientists. As you can imagine this has been keeping us amused for most the day and will no doubt continue throughout tonights celebratory dinner which I might add have all been top draw.

Other birds today

Southern Fulmar
Black bellied Storm Petrel
Wilsons Petrel
Grey H albatross
Black B Albatross
LIGHT MANTLED SOOTY ALBATROSS

Also Minke and Humpback Whale and several Orcas.

More Seawatching tommorrow.

Pintado Petrel.

In the footsteps of Shackleton

Well day 3 in the Antarctic and we have passed Elephant Island famous of course for Shackletons heroics and have sailed down the Gerlache Strait but I was again thwarted by some ketabatic winds. Reaching 90 mph we were unable to negotiate the relatively narrow passage of the Neumayer Channel.


Today saw a distinct abscence of sub antarctic species with no Prions, Shearwaters or Albatrosses being seen. They have been repalced by truly Antarctic species such as several Snow Petrels , Antarctic tern, South Polar Skua and many hundred Wilsons Petrels.

My route tomorrow takes me out towards Deception Island and then across the infamous Drake passage towards Cape Horn. Fortunetly none of the men suffer sea sickness but the next few days should test our resolve.

Will post many photo's on my return.

Ice with our on board drinks................

It just gets better,

A force 8 gale delayed my arrival into stanley cutting my 8 hour stay into 4 resulting in my picking up fewer birds than hoped but did get to see one of my target birds Long tailed Meadow Lark; brilliant. Well I have arrived in Antarctica and now been here for 2 days. Had to alter our course today as channel iced over and too many bergs and its the middle of summer!!

Anyway I am pleased and relieved that after 8 days at sea I have today finally cracked my all time target Albatross 'you guessed it' LIGHT MANTLED SOOTY ALBATROSS. what a bird!!!!!

Other highlights over last couple of days include

Chinstrap Penguin
Magallenic Penguin
Gentoo Pengin
Lots of Falkland endemics
Giant Petrels including several White morphs (very impressive)
Sheathbill
Snow Petrel
South Polar Skua
Grey Headed Alabtross
Gibsons Albatross
LIGHT MANTLED SOOTY ALBATROSS

Will keep you updated

Hope all is well at home.

Birds galore!

Hola,

What a BLASTt down here in the Southern Seas. will keep this brief as satalite connection is about a $10000000 per minute.
Quick run down so far to get the juices flowing

Atlantic  Petrel x500
Soft Plumaged x 1000
Giant Petrel
White Chinned Petrel
Wilsons Petrel
Black bellied Storm Petrel x200
Yellow Nosed Albatross
Black Browed Albatross
Wandering Albatross x 5

  photographs Phil Woollen

And not even at Falkland yet !! Really is unbelievable. And 20ft waves and 50 ft spray make it even better. No bergs yet.

Gotta go now to watch Whipper and Kenny perform in the on board Tango competition they have entered. who will be leading??

Stay safe

Adios for now..